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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: February 16th, 2024

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  • I had a friend who got corrective surgery and their eyesight got wrecked afterwards. I had several friends who got surgery and had no issues.

    I depend on my eyes entirely too much to ever consider risking it, and contacts squick me out too much for me to use them. So I’ll settle for the hassle of glasses over the drawbacks of the others.

    These lenses in the article in particular still aren’t for sale, despite the article being ten years old now. They do have a lot of ai-hype articles about them though.


  • Posted wrong, here’s my whole story:

    I have a single AC damper that is fail-close, but was wired as always powered open by the people who put the AC unit into my house before I bought it. This would be fine, except I live near a meat packing plant, and sometimes the air outside stinks. I want to be able to close and open the damper based on various criteria I get from home assistant. (air quality, direction, speed, etc)

    This is the AC damper unit: https://www.resideo.com/us/en/pro/products/air/forced-air-zoning/replacement-actuators/replacement-motor-for-eard-ventilation-damper-m847d-vent-u/

    This is the shelly plus uni im trying to use: https://us.shelly.com/products/shelly-plus-uni

    And the multimeter says the output power for the damper (which is powered by my AC unit) outputs 30V AC power.

    I was able to power the shelly device by just plugging it into the AC power with Red to Red, and Black to Black. However, it turns out the Shelly device does not send that power out through its two switchable outputs. Those are called “dry circuits” apparently.

    So my goal is to power the shelly device, the ac damper device, and have the shelly device ALSO switch the damper on and off. I know it’s possible, I just don’t know how.

    So, the above diagram is my attempt to wire the shelly device into the setup. However, whenever I power the relay in the shelly device, the shelly device fries itself. So I’m looking for where I went wrong, and how to make it all work.



  • I know most of the less expensive used hardware is going to be server-shaped/rackmount. Don’t go for it unless you have a garage or shed that you can stuff them in. They put out jet-engine levels of noise and require god tier soundproofing in order to quiet them. The ones that are advertised as quiet are quiet as compared to other server hardware.

    You can grab an epyc motherboard that is ATX and will do all you want, and can then move it to a rackmount later if you end up going that way.

    The NVIDIA launch has been a bit of a paper one. I don’t expect the prices of anything else to adjust down, rather the 5090 may just end up adjusting itself up. This may change over time, but the next couple of months aren’t likely to have major deals worth holding out for.